Day 16 August 22 2001

A day of rest and of pure tourism. We walked about town, a bit frustrated to discover that before 2 pm none of the monuments were open. But we finally entered the church of St. Mary’s and what a delight. A church of antiquity, that remembered and reveled in its past yet shared its use with the present. Everywhere was intricate ironwork that captured the living essence of flowers and growing things. The stained glass brightly proclaimed the stories of the church and the men of faith that Monmouth had given to the world.
It was strange to amble from that monument, that prayer in art, to a deification of another sort. The Nelson museum proclaimed the divine elevation of the state and the apotheosis of Horatio Nelson. Here the memory of Admiral Nelson is preserved, decorated, gilded until he and his devotion to the empire are memorialized in a vomiting of platitudes. It was almost a relief to leave.

From there to the castle and regimental museum. Here was a more dignified memorial of wars. Yes, they are to be remembered, but for what they are, not a glorified image. Here they demonstrated what the common people think of political intrigues that tear their land apart. I especially enjoyed the pride with which the people of Monmouth declared that during the British Civil War they were always ready to serve whichever side had most recently conquered it so, long as they were left mostly alone.
From there we bought food and ambled down the banks of the Monnow River and talked at length on the nature of art and the ability of people to appreciate it. And we read and talked of the nature of religion and the meaning of the Gnostic gospels. Such discussions they were that I hesitate to write them down for knowledge that I will run short of space. And I must admit that discussions is a gentle title for what amounted to me rambling on and Heather politely listening and asking questions when it was obvious that I wanted her too.

Tonight we look forward once more to our tent and I must admit that I tired of our portable accommodation. Cramped, hot, stale, bug infested and altogether disheartening are words that describe our wedding bed.

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