Day 19. Bristol August 25 2001

I had expected today to be a day of pure biking, there was nothing I wanted to see between Chepstow and Bath. Instead it turned into a day of half and half. We left Chepstow late, almost at noon, and crossed the Severn River Bridge.

We didn't feel we could make it all the way to Bath in a single day so we traveled up the Avon River Gorge to a marked camping site. We couldn't find the site and asking directions only got us even more lost. We biked up the New Cut Avon, a disgusting mud slurry, thought some very underprivileged neighborhoods. Somehow we found ourselves in downtown Bristol and angry with the horrible posted directions. The tourist information office pointed us in the right direction and we finally found a secluded, though expensive, campsite.

We walked along the river front and to our surprise, once our frustration had passed, Bristol was revealed as a stunning city. We ate just outside our camp, sitting along the river Avon and watching the boats. Then we walked along the quayside towards downtown. All along the quay were boats of every shape and description, from a boat that was a refuge for old hippies to sculling boats and canal boats. We passed in front of the industrial museum; gawking like the tourists we were at the great electric and steam cranes. We walked along the cobblestones in front of the youth hostel and straight into modern Bristol.

Bristol had attacked the millennial celebration with a vengeance and their bronze fountains and great mirrored sphere were strangely beautiful surrounded by gothic churches and 18th century docks.


From the millennia center we walked up to the cathedral were all of Bristol’s youth hung out in the evening.
The cathedral was unfortunately closed but we got our walks worth by walking along the front of the council building then down to the waterfront once more. Along the way we passed three bachelor parties, a bachelorette and quite a few notices announcing pending nuptials. It seemed that in 2001 all of Bristol was in love and it was nice to be surrounded by it.

The people at the campsite next to us were very friendly and chatted with us until it was dark. Heathers charm is still in full force. It seems everyone we encounter and speak to for a few moments feels compelled to share their entire life stories.

All in all I am more than pleasantly surprised by the city of Bristol. I had expected it to be a harsh and industrial stop on our journey, a place to rest out heads and bodies and nothing more. Instead we find a place that we would like to spend more time. But I am looking forward to the resort town of Bath, despite the holiday, and if Bristol is good then how great will Bath be?

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